Don’t Book a Ryokan Until You Read This.

If you’ve never stayed at a ryokan before, it can feel a little intimidating.

Tatami floors. Sliding doors. Rules you don’t fully understand. And an onsen where everyone is naked except you…

I get it.

My first time at a ryokan, I stood at the entrance for a solid 10 seconds wondering if I should take my shoes off right there or wait until someone told me.
A staff member in a kimono smiled at me, bowed, and guided me inside.
I felt welcomed, but also clueless.

That’s why I’m writing this guide.
I want your first ryokan stay to feel peaceful, magical, and easy — not confusing.

Here’s everything you need to know, written in simple steps you can follow without stress.

In today’s email:

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn.
It’s quiet. It’s peaceful. And it’s designed to slow you down.

You sleep on futons instead of beds.
You walk on tatami mats instead of carpet.
You wear a yukata instead of your usual clothes.

And each course looks like it belongs in a museum.
It’s Japan pulling you into a quieter rhythm the moment you arrive.

Pick your stay based on:

If it’s your first time, choose one that includes dinner and breakfast.
The food is a big part of the experience.

This part feels different from hotels.

A staff member usually:

You don’t need to figure things out alone.
They guide you.

Inside your room, you’ll find:

Important:
Shoes and slippers stay off the tatami.

The yukata is your “comfort uniform” at the ryokan.

Just remember one thing:
Left side over right side.
Right over left is for funerals.

Wear it to dinner.
Wear it to the bath.
Wear it while relaxing.
It’s part of the experience.

If it’s your first time, don’t worry. I felt unsure too — but once you know the flow, it’s surprisingly simple. Here’s exactly how it works:

When you enter, you’ll see lockers or baskets.
Take off all your clothes and leave everything there except the small towel.
That’s the only thing you bring with you.

The first time feels a bit awkward — totally normal.
But it honestly disappears within minutes because everyone is doing the same thing.

Tip: Leave jewelry in the locker. Minerals in the water can tarnish metal.

Before getting anywhere near the bath, you wash.
This is not optional.

You’ll see little shower stations with stools and hand showers.
Sit down, take your time, wash your whole body, and rinse really well.
Soap and shampoo are always provided.

I always slow down here — it feels like a reset before the soak.

Now it’s bath time.
Carry your small towel, but don’t let it touch the water.

Most people fold it and place it on their heads.
Step in slowly — the water is usually hotter than you expect — and let your body adjust.

Tip: Don’t force yourself to stay too long.
A few minutes, a break, then back in again makes the whole experience better.

Once you’re in, enjoy the quiet.
Onsens aren’t for loud conversation or splashing — they’re for slowing down.

Some days I last five minutes.
Other times I melt in there like butter.
Just listen to your body and don’t push past “too hot.”

Step out slowly.
Cool down for a moment before heading back to the changing room.

Most people lightly pat themselves with the small towel, then finish drying inside.

Tip: Drink water after your soak.
You’ll sweat more than you think.

If you’re staying at a ryokan, don’t stop at one soak.
I usually go again after dinner… and then once more in the morning.
It hits differently each time.

Dinner at a ryokan is called kaiseki.
It’s a multi-course meal with seasonal dishes.

You’ll often get:

It’s slow.
Beautiful.
And unforgettable.

Sleeping on a futon is one of the most unique parts of staying at a ryokan — and honestly, one of my favorites.

If you’ve never slept on one before, here’s what you should know:

A futon isn’t a couch-bed like in the West.
It’s a thick, soft mattress placed directly on the tatami floor.
There’s no frame, no legs, no noise — just comfort on top of natural flooring.

Tatami has a slight softness to it, so you’re not lying on a hard surface.
It feels grounding and surprisingly cozy.

Most ryokans set up the futon while you’re at dinner.
You’ll come back to your room and find your bedding already laid out:

It feels like the room transforms into a completely different space — from a tea room to a sleep sanctuary.

Short answer: yes.
Long answer: it’s a different type of comfort.

It’s firmer than a Western bed, but your body gets used to it faster than you’d think.
For many people, it’s the best sleep they get during the whole trip because the room is quiet, dark, and naturally peaceful.

I was surprised how well I slept on my first futon.
It felt like my body reset overnight.

Japanese futons come with thick, fluffy duvets.
You’ll stay warm even on winter nights.
Some ryokans even have heated tables or kotatsu in the room.

Traditional Japanese pillows are sometimes filled with beads or buckwheat hulls.
They’re firmer than Western pillows.

If you need something softer, just ask — many ryokans offer alternatives.

It’s not only the bedding.
It’s the whole atmosphere:

Your body relaxes in a way that’s hard to describe but easy to feel.

The staff will fold the futons away or leave them for you to handle.
It’s normal either way.
If you want to try it yourself, just fold the duvet and mattress and place them neatly to the side.

It opens the room back up and makes you appreciate how multipurpose the space is.

If you want a softer or firmer futon, you can always ask.
They often have extra layers they can add.
Ryokans want you to be comfortable — never hesitate to speak up.

Breakfast is usually Japanese-style unless you request Western.
Checkout is usually around 10:00.

Here’s what you need to remember:

Take off your shoes.
Walk softly.
Keep your voice low in the hallways.
Use the yukata correctly.
Relax and enjoy the silence.

That’s it.

I hope this little guide helps you feel more confident — and a little more excited — about staying at a ryokan.

My first time was filled with small moments of uncertainty, but it ended up becoming one of the highlights of my entire trip. And that’s usually how Japan works: the things you’re unsure about end up becoming the memories you treasure most.

Until then — take it slow, enjoy the journey, and let Japan work its magic.

Mata ne!

/ The Japan Genie